Kila Raipur: Of Bullock-Cart Races, Village Games and Punjab Da Flavour

Guest post & photos by Divya Rai, and additional text & photos by Ramit Mitra, founder, DelhiByFoot and organising leader of the two day trip. Additional pictures with respective credits wherever applicable is given.

Divya is a totally footloose and fancy-free soul, who is training to become a photographer. When she is not being trigger-happy, she writes at A Borrowed Backpack. Divya’s backpack is perpetually overflowing with stories from wherever and whenever she has travelled and hopes her journeys never end!

Kila Raipur Sports Fest

[Author’s Note: This post talks about Kila Raipur Sports Festival, an event that involves quite a few sports where animals are the participants. It is likely to hurt the sensibilities of animal-lovers, which is understandable. But in the same breath, I would like to tell you dear reader, that raising a hue and cry on this post will not help any horse or bullock in Ludhiana. The event draws its influences from rural India and is merely a reflection of how the rural-life in India survives and thrives. Unfortunately, when they started the event in 1933, they simply forgot to ask for our (yours and mine) permission. Let us just deal with it now, eh? ]

Kila Raipur Village Olympics is a sporting event worth visiting, just for the sake of the announcer’s non-stop commentary itself! Sample this:
a) “Tussi side ho jao, baaelaan vich brake-aan nhi hondi”  [Translation: Please clear the field. Bullocks do not come with brakes]
Right after this announcement, one bloke ambles into the track-area and manages to get run-over by a speeding horse, thereby getting seriously injured in the process!

b) “Aiy prize-distribution, Shri Harinder Grewal (IAS), Shri Raminder Singh (PCS), Shri Jagjit Singh (Canada), blah blah blah…” [Names are fictional]. [Translation: This prize distribution will be done by Shri Harinder Grewal (Indian Administrative Service), Shri Raminder Singh (Provincial Civil Services), Shri Jagjit Singh (Canada)].

No. Please don’t ask me when and how did Kanedda’ (To the uninitiated it is Canada as pronounced in Punjab!) become a designation with the Indian government. Canada and dollar-dreams are deeply embedded in the DNA of almost the entire of Punjab. Period.

Kila Raipur Sports Festival
Our driver, who hailed from a village next to Kila Raipur sported a ring with a dollar coin on his index finger!

Gradually, I have come to believe that maybe ‘Kanedda’ is the real capital of Punjab. It is just that it happens to lie outside the geographical realms of India!

About Kila Raipur Sports Festival (KRSF)
Before going for the event, every time I mentioned it to my friends that I wished to attend the Village Olympics in Punjab, I was invariably asked: “Ohh! So there is a sports festival just for ‘gulli-danda’?” [Come to think of the irony, that there is simply no ‘gulli-danda‘ at this event!]

KRSF has been on my travel-radar for quite a while now, but I have always been slightly hesitant in taking up this trip. As a girl I think, I was a little apprehensive that it would be rowdy. But it is not. It is boisterous, an adjective which is inherently ‘Punjab’. More than the destination, it is the journey that matters (at least, to a traveller), and I, purely by luck, bumped into DelhiByFoot and teamed up with them for the journey. I don’t think I have thanked Ajit, my friend, enough for putting me in touch with this awesome bunch of people!

Kila ‘Rapper’, as the locals refer to it, has been celebrating the spirit of rural sports for last 81 years. Grewals, the jat-community of Punjab, that finds its origin in and around the area called Kila Raipur, were the initiators of the event way back in 1933. The body that co-ordinates and manages the event, called Grewal Sporting Association, is extremely proud of its rural heritage.

The venue is a sports stadium in the ‘pind’ (village) of Kila Raipur, with both the ends seamlessly merging into vastness of fields that has wheat and mustard crops sown in. This bit is on purpose, as the various races that have animals as participants, need more area to stop the follow-through of the run. The animals run at great speeds and run much past the finish line, into the fields before finally coming to a halt.

Kila Raipur Sports Festival 2The event, due to its rustic nature, is a crowd-puller for two distinct kinds of people. One – the locals, for whom it is an annual event of great significance. It borders sacrosanctity for the participants and this can be sensed from the way they bend down, touch the ground and then their forehead to pay respect to the ‘start-line’ before the commencement of any race. The other chunk comprises curious artists from various mediums – photographers, videographers, documentary film-makers and bloggers. Kila Raipur Sports Festival encompasses the disparate crowd with surprising ease and effortlessness.

Kila Raipur Sports Festival 2014
It was refreshing to see a sporting-event which, the likes of Coca-Cola and Pepsi are yet to corrupt. My heart did a little jig out of pure happiness! Don’t get me wrong. I have nothing against these companies (except the health factor, maybe). It is just that most of the FMCG sponsors make EVERY event look like a clone of the other, thereby stripping the event of any individuality that it may have once had.
At KRSF, most of the sponsors were Indian companies. A few were, predictably, the ones that manufacture agriculture-related machinery and fertilizer companies. The food-stalls at the venue were totally ‘desi’ fare. Sugar-cane juices, fruit-salads, pocket-kulcha, Kinoo Fruit-juice, chaat, chai and samosas were being sold at the stalls and hand-carts that could be spotted right outside the venue.

Even though these items were being prepared fresh, the hygiene level is slightly ‘iffy’ because of all the dust in the area. I can digest just about anything, so I enjoyed everything. But I suggest, please go ahead with the food-items only if your system is not too sensitive. Or else, peanuts aren’t that bad an alternative!

Some spicy Pocket-Kulcha getting ready for us
Some spicy Pocket-Kulcha getting ready for us
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Fresh sugarcane juice….
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…..’Kinoo’ juice to keep you refreshed!
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…fruit chaat of Papaya, Apples, Grapes…liberally sprinkled with Red Chilli powder and Chaat Masala!

The Event
Every time I tried to gather any information about KRSF, all I could lay my hands on were the images from event. It was not very helpful in communicating about how to go about it- the stay, commute, food etc. Thanks to DelhiByFoot and subsequently my own research I am now in a position to put together some information which will hopefully help people in the future.

KRSF celebrates the regular as well as not-so-regular sports categories with great enthusiasm. The one with the regular races like- 400m race, 200m race, shot-put throw etc for various categories and the others like grey-hound race, bullock-cart race, mule-race and tractor race. The latter is something that draws influence from the rural-lifestyle.

What garners the maximum accolades is the category with individual stunt-like feats of strength by the villagers, for example – lifting a plough with the teeth, a tractor rolling over a man lying on the ground, pulling a car with one’s teeth,  lifting a 100kg sack with one’s mouth, motorcycle stunts etc.

Kila Raipur Sports Fest
Gurmeet Singh Ji has been lifting Ploughs, Cycles and Ladders in his mouth for the last 29 yrs at the KRSF. The weight of the plough is almost 85Kgs as he claimed!
Kila Raipur Sports Fest 2014
A tractor rolls over Balbir Mirza of Hoshiarpur who lies on the ground!
Kila Raipur Sports Fest
Using his tuft of hair, Jagtar Singh pulls along a Maruti Alto Car for at least 2 mtrs. Phew!

KRSF  acknowledges and honors the handicapped people with great pride and successfully communicates that a human being can achieve so much if they choose to look beyond their imperfections. Here is an image from one such event.

Kila Raipur Sports Festival 7
This person could walk only with the help of crutches, because his right leg was affected with polio. But he could pull the Alto car with his teeth!

For me, the most interesting ones were the team-events like : Loading and off-loading of tractor-trolley with gunny-bags full of grains and Kabaddi.

Kila Raipur
2 teams compete against each other to load up or unload a truck of gunny bags in a ‘x’ duration of time

Here is a list of events at KRSF. My highlights of the crowd-pulling events are below.

Bullock Cart Race
The traditional bullock carts are replaced by a smaller and lighter cart attachment called ‘thokar’to reduce serious injuries to both man and animal due to accidents/collisions of speeding carts.

Kila Raipur Sports Fest 2014
In hot pursuit of the leader of the pack!!
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The scent of victory!
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Crossing the finish line, the winner takes it all !

Tractor Race
In a Punjab village how can tractors not be racing each other?! The ultimate salute to male machismo!

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In a billowing cloud of smoke and dust the tractors roared to life!
Kila Raipur Sports Festival
That tractors can run so fast, we had never imagined in our wildest dreams…for their weight, remarkable F1 style speeds!
Kila Raipur Sports Festival
And the local lad from the village of Kila Raipur wins the Tractor race in a flurry of thundering cacaphony…

Horse Racing

Kila Raipur Sports Festival
Eeeyaaah! Horse and Man fly in unison!

Traditional Races and Sports too!

Kila Raipur Sports Festival
Reaching for the skies!
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Off the starting block!
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Zor se khincho doston…Tug-of-war in progress!
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Cyclists whizz past us…

Our stay:
Ludhiana is the city closest to KRSF venue. DelhiByFoot made arrangements for our stay in a hotel called Mahal, on Ferozpur Road. A decent place with delightfully clean washrooms. For me, a clean washroom is more important than the room itself. The other alternative would be a home-stay close to the venue. No options that we came to know of though! It will not only cut down the hassles of commuting, but would also give you a sneak-peek into the rural-life.
The best bet? Pack a tent and pitch it close to the venue. Close by, there is the main village called Kila Raipur. Befriend a local guy for your basic needs. Have fun! (Not recommended for female solo-travellers though!)

Commute:
KRSF ‘s venue is at a distance of approximately 18 kilometers from Ludhiana. You can, from the main bus-station, take a local bus to Dhellon, which is at a distance of 3 kilometers from the venue. From Dhellon, you can take a shared autorickshaw (or book one for yourself entirely) to Kila Raipur Sports Festival. This drill is effortless while going to the venue, but God save you if you more than two travellers (AND have women in the group),  trying to get back to Ludhiana after the day KRSF is over!
The road outside the venue is nothing too amazing to get stranded at. Especially after it is dark. It goes dead, with almost no public transport. Not a soul to spot, for long duration of time. Your best bet would be to book a cab/taxi from Ludhiana for the day. This way, no matter how late you get, you’ll not have to worry about ‘how to-s’ of getting back to the town. DelhiByFoot did the next best thing, they booked autorickshaw for us the whole of 2 days!

Punjab Da Flavour

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Bhangra te music…

 

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….te Punjab ke Sarson de Khet….
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And we also get our own cart ride!!!

To Dos for a first-timer to KRSF:
1) While it is important that you click pictures to be uploaded on social media, it is also important that you observe the event with your naked eyes. And soul.  ‘Observe’ and not ‘watch’. Yes.
Because ‘the want’ to click the perfect picture takes a toll on the way you experience the event. You miss a lot of action. Fixing the ISO, the shutter-speed, the mode and the aperture takes your attention away from the pre-race apprehensions of the participants, the anticipation of winning, the jubilant celebrations once a favorite participant wins, the commentary and much more.

2) Talk to the locals They have so much to tell! Notice how emotions run high (in a positive way) for this event. Also, listen to the murmurs as the participants touch the finish line. It tells so much about how the event is H-U-G-E, for the local people.

3) Sample the local fare Punjab is much more than Butter Chicken or Chicken Tandoori! As I have mentioned above, keep your gastronomic explorations within the tolerance capacity you have built up in your travels. It is no fun lying in the hotel room with an upset tummy, especially if you have travelled especially for an event like KRSF.

Please Do Not However:
1) Depend on the venue or its location for food or bottled water. It has, practically nothing to eat if you are even slightly discerning. Carry your own food and water if you plan to be there at the venue for the whole day. DelhiByFoot by virtue of being registered as ‘Photography & Media Partners’ with the KRSF, had access to clean drinking water and a midday snack of ‘Paneer Rolls’ (Imagine eating vegetarian in Punjab!)

2) Think that every day will have the same events. Not even one day is worth missing. Period.

3) Crazily risk your life to get a few good pictures. Photographers, I know, would disagree. But an animal is an animal; and for events like these, often high on drugs! It makes sense to watch out and be careful!

4) Expect this to be a swanky and slickly organised ‘Urban Mela’ event! It is as rustic as it can get.

Lastly, my suggestion to KRSF; how about addinggulli-danda’  as one of the sports, to this event?!!

Hope you as much fun going through this blog post as we had at KRSF and in putting together this photo-story for you!

For more pix check out our Facebook Album

Shab-E-Baraat Celebrations in Dilli…

Across the country today one of the most auspicious of Muslim festivals is being celebrated with a whole night of offering special prayers and reciting of the Quran, religious fervour and rituals and ‘Dua’ for ‘divine blessings’. Tonight is the auspicious 15th night of Shabaan, also called “Shab-e-Baraat”, that the Prophet Muhammad taught his disciples to be the beginning of a New year in the spiritual realm, when the affairs of human beings are arranged in the Divine Presence and it is believed that the destinies of all men are written for the coming year taking into account their past deeds.

On this exalted night, the Muslims pray and seek forgiveness for sins of the past 12 months and visit the graves of their relatives and offer flowers, light lamps at/on the graves and seek God’s blessings for the departed souls of their forefathers.

On this intervening night of 24th/25th June, the major and minor Dargahs of Delhi are the best places to feel and experience the unique celebrations of the night of Shab-E-Baraat. The Dargahs of Khwaja Bakhtiyar Kaki in Mehrauli, Khwaja Nizamuddin Auliya and Dargah-e-Matka Peer in central Delhi and Khwaja Chirag-e-Dehlvi near Malviya Nagar even have their streets being illuminated with lights and candles.

SHAB-e-BARAAT
Walking among the tombs on the night of Shab-e-Baraat is like floating on a carpet of stars.

Flowers, incense sticks, oil-lamps(Diyas) are offered at the graves of the deceased family members and Sufi Saints. Many unmarked graves and graves of long-forgotten people are also cleaned and flowers and oil lamps are offered by the community of people living nearby, as a mark of respect to the long-departed souls.

SHAB-e-BARAAT

One of the holiest and most significant nights of the Islamic calendar, next only to Lailatul Qadir (27th night of Ramadaan) in auspiciousness, the night of “Shab-e-Baraat” is observed 15 days before the start of the holy month of Ramadaan/Ramazaan. The night is known as Laylatul Bara’ah or Lay-latun Nisf-eMin Shaban in the rest of the Arab world, while the Indian sub-continent we popularly know its as the night of “Shab-e-Baraat”.

You will see lamps(Diyas) glowing inside almost all houses around these Dargahs as most of the houses have been built over graves, especially in Nizamuddin Dargah Basti.
You will see lamps(Diyas) glowing inside almost all houses around these Dargahs as most of the houses have been built over graves, especially in Nizamuddin Dargah Basti.
 pattering feet giggling away trying to keep the flames alive, walking among the tombs on the night of Shab E Barat is like floating on a carpet of stars.
Pattering feet and children giggling away while they keep trying to keep the flames alive! A religious fervour thats a spectacle in itself.

There are displays of colorful fireworks and lighting at the Dargahs and sweets like halwa-paratha, sweet-rice pulao and other mithais are distributed as part of acts of charity performed for the poor and needy.

Halwa Paratha, a treat in the bylanes around the Dargahs make for a fitting end to our exploration last year.
Halwa-Paratha, a treat in the bylanes around the Dargahs made for a fitting end to our exploration last year.

Celebrating Womanhood: Kanjake Puja then and now in Delhi

Guest Post & Pic by Shweta Luthra                 Additional Pic by Priyanka Bhaskar

Kanjake Prashaad Thaali
My mother’s Puja Thali this year in Canada

My childhood memories of Kanjake Puja (celebrated on Ashtmi or Navami Puja during Navratras as per beliefs of a particular family) are of getting up early morning to the smell of Suji being roasted in desi ghee for making Halwa. It used to be one of the very few days when my 2 brothers and I would wake up early, take a shower and get all ready before 8 am on a school holiday.

I remember the morning was full of action. My mother doing a million things in the kitchen at the same time- making halwa, boiling Kala-chaana, heating oil for frying pooris. My elder brother would be sent off to invite minor girls or the Kanjakes to our homes. Kanjakes are minor girls who are seen as ‘swaroop’ or ‘incarnations’ of Ma Vaishno Devi and thus the Puja rituals are associated with worshipping the little girls as the ‘Devi Incarnate’. The Kanjakes or girls from around the neighbourhood are invited home and a ritualistic washing of their feet, applying tilak, garlanding them and after worshipping them, giving away gifts and Prashaad is the usual routine of the Kanjake Puja.

My father would get the house mandir ready. There will be Mata ke Bhajan playing on the tape-recorder (there were no CD-players in that era!) in the background. My grandmother doing her routine morning pooja (7 times Hanuman Chalisa, reading Sukhmani Saheb Jap) at home, which was always followed by a visit to the temple and gurudwara. As Punjabis we had never been taught to differentiate between Hindu and Sikh traditions

Kanjake, for us kids had another significance. It marked the end of 8 days of fasting and abstinence from non-vegetarian food. At that age, those 8 days of foregoing even our favourite egg omelette sprinkled liberally with onions & tomatoes seemed like an eternity! And not a day of the Navratris would pass by without my mother and grandmother having to answer each of the three of us queries of how many more days before we could eat normal food (read that as chicken, eggs and fish)!

Well, things haven’t changed much since then. We still celebrate the day with its trademark Kanjake Prashaad- Chhole, Poori and Halwa. I still play my favourite bhajans in the morning. It’s still a very happy day.

But some things have changed because of our new lifestyles in a urban city like Delhi. As a working woman, it has become difficult for me to manage all the rituals and thus I have cut down on the gamut of the activities involved. But the parts we loved then, I still do follow very rigorously and the special food of the day, the Kanjake Prashaad is a must-do for me! Alhough we get the prashaad ready, due to lack of time in the mornings we don’t invite the Kanjakes. We instead give away the prashaad and small gifts to the people who help us in our community and day-to-day life, like the local laundry/washerman bhaiya, or the didi who helps cook at my home or the lady that picks up the garbage etc.

Another change is that earlier we used to abstain from onions and garlic along with all types of non-vegetarian food during Navratras. But now since we spend most of our day in our offices, in meetings, travelling at odd hours out of the city on work and more, we have compromised on this to some extent. We for example don’t eat non-vegetarian foods, but don’t mind eating food that has the essential Indian garnishing of onion and garlic.

And bestest of all changes nowadays is the Special Navratra Feasts available in various restaurants. Be it the corner Food joint or a trendy chain of restaurants in malls, during these 8-9 days a variety of ‘Vrat Bhojan’ or ‘fasting foods’ are available widely. While traditionally it used to be Kuttu ke aate ki poori, potato curry and paneer. Now you get Kachche Kele ki subzi (Curry made of unripe Banana), Kadhi, different types of kheer, Khatte vrat wale chawal ki khichdi and what not! And all made with mouth-watering spices and recipes that just do not make you miss the onion/garlic or the non-vegetarian. Another funny thing is that for the last couple of years, it is my better half who has been keeping the Navratra fasts on all the 8 days, while I gorge on all the feasts at restaurants!

For me these Navratra rituals are some of the ties to my childhood. For me the joy of celebrating Kanjake lies in revisiting childhood memories by doing some of the many rituals and practices that my mother and grandmother used to do! By celebrating the girl child, by paying our respects to the ‘Goddess Shakti’ and by ‘initiating’ my Bengali better-half into some basic Punjabi culture, I feel I am still keeping my traditions alive. After all, I might have forgotten the religious aspects but I most certainly haven’t forgotten the happiness this day brings.

Let me share my easy-peasy-working-woman’s recipe for the Prashaad. It is a really simple and easy one that takes very less effort and time to get some steaming hot Halwa, Channa and Poori.

Halwa:

1 cup sooji

1 cup sugar

4 cups water

Roast Suji in desi ghee or vegetable oil (for the calorie conscious!) till its brown. Then add sugar and water while stirring. Bring it to a boil and then cook it well on low flame.

Chhole:

Soak kala chana overnight. In the morning boil till it i tender. In a Kadhai put 2 spoons of oil. When the oil heats up add half a teaspoon jeera. When jeera starts crackling, add little salt, lal mirch, dhania powder and haldi. Then add boiled chana without water. Cook for 5 minutes till its completely dry.

To serve to Kanjake and do the Puja in your home mandir, put 2 poories, a little bit of halwa and chhole. Keep some money and a chocolate handy as a gift, to give to the little girls that you can find in your family and your neighbourhood!

Happy Navratras & Kanjake Puja!

Kanjake Prashaad